It took us about 5 minutes before we found a bar with a nice terrace and decided to spend our day there instead. Unfortunately, there is a taxi mafia that controls the transport prices between Ushguli and Mestia. We went to the Didube Bus Station and there were not any direct marshrutka to Mestia, but we were able to hop on one for Kutaisi (3 hours) and then from there, grab one to Mestia (5.5 hours). being the ideal trekking time. - | Reverso Context: "Jnos Arany" . Trekking Mestia to Ushguli in October, in Svaneti, Georgia by Erika van 't Veld | Nov 14, 2018 Although it's one of the most popular treks in Georgia, the trek from Mestia to Ushguli was still blissfully off the tourist radar. There are cafes and restaurants in Mestia and a few in Ushguli, but the only place to buy meals during the hike is at guesthouses (you can eat at them even if you are camping). As a result, we descended to the river/ main road too early. These next four parts are the guide to the Mestia to Ushguli trek. A few things to do in Ushguli are walk through the old town of Khadashi, where you can stop for food and coffee at Old House. like us, you can get weather reports at any location. You can also create new routes online yourself and export them as GPX or KML files. The drive back is spectacular along the deep Enguri river gorge. A marshrutka is a large van or minibus that can fit a lot of passengers in. If a dog comes up to you, its generally friendly. You can buy screw-in style camping gas at Geoland or MPlus in Tbilisi, and in various shops along the main street in Mestia. Bring a raincoat and a rain cover for your pack unless you want to be miserable. A good walker with a tent could comfortably finish this trek in three days, but if you want to sleep in guesthouses, you probably need to split it into four days. There is no way around it taking significant time and effort to get from Tbilisi to Svaneti (unless you can get a flight) but it is worth it. June & July 2023 Group Expeditions, The 9 Best Countries in Europe For Budget Travelers, The Ultimate Backpacker Travel Guide to Prague | 2022, The Ultimate Huaraz Bucket List: 27 Things To Do | Peru, Were Going To Peru! We followed the trail off to the right where we came across a small wooden cafe with a cracking view. We hiked down from Iprali, reaching the main road to Ushguli and having endured quite a bit during our last few days, we opted to go by car. After hours and hours of trekking, we were pretty beat. *, Hiking Season We got a horse in the end. Covers not only classic trails but also alternative routes which are even more difficult and scenic. There are also drinks and snacks available en route in small home style cafes. . It makes for a more atmospheric overnight stay than Iprali in our opinion, but Khalde Guesthouse was closed and Qaldea Resort was still under construction when we passed through, so we didnt have the pleasure. Because these cookies are strictly necessary to deliver the website, refusing them will have impact how our site functions. 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La ruta recorre algunos de los paisajes ms espectaculares de las montaas del Cucaso, con . This blog post answers all the questions I had before doing the trek and provides all the information you need to hike Mestia to Ushguli. Day 6: Ushba glacier hike or its shorter version Shdugra waterfalls horse riding in Mazeri to see Mazeri area as well. ATMs are plentiful, even in small towns in Georgia and Armenia. If you need a larger backpack than this, in my view, you are bringing too much. This is the town with the Kala Cafe. Leaving Mestia, we followed the excellent hiking instructions on Caucasustrekking.com and used maps.me which gave us a good idea of what trail to follow. When you reach the ski lift your climbing for the day is nearly over. It took one hour to walk the final two kms kms so we finally arrived, tired out after 7 long hours on the trail. Its also possible to get a packed lunch (often referred to as a lunch box), or indeed no meals at all (but with nowhere else to eat along the trail, it makes sense to always include the meals in your stay). Sunscreen is also a must. As soon as you get off the train at Zugdidi, the marshrutka drivers will come to you. Make sure you dont make the same mistake as us, download it in advance! We followed the path along the ski lift, running into yellow signs every 10-15 minutes or so. But there is still a long way to go. There are other small villages nearby each of these where some people prefer to stay instead. We stayed at Raul Darbazs guesthouse which was comfortable and very welcoming although the dinner portions were a bit small for someone who had just walked 19 kms. At one point, we had to balance precariously on the rocks over the river while holding on to a fence running alongside. The trek itself is not that difficult and is meant to be accessible to hikers at all different levels. We managed to hike up in 2 hours and back in 1.5 hours. The guesthouse was called Keti Margiani and cost 70 lari per room. Search and book tickets via, From Kutaisi, a direct marshrutka departs for Mestia from the, Its also possible to fly from Kutaisi or Natakhtari (near Tbilisi) to Mestia with. and the start of the high route to Adishi. Advertisements These cookies are strictly necessary to provide you with services available through our website and to use some of its features. You can rent camping gear at, is always a good idea for charging your phone, camera batteries, etc. Look for the Queen Tamar statue, turn right, and cross the river on a bridge. Thats about 35 miles total, going up and down mountains! The usual trail from Chvabiani/Zhabeshi emerges from the forest around 1 km uphill from the entry cable car station. Markings are sparse and the trail is very narrow. Youll have good cell phone coverage throughout the region. We use cookies to let us know when you visit our websites, how you interact with us, to enrich your user experience, and to customize your relationship with our website. The second section is from Zhabeshi to Adishi, about 6 miles. Another point to note on weather is that the sky is more likely to be clear in the morning providing good mountain views. There are two small cafes in the village. Very helpful! Then youll see a vast valley, filled with farms and villages. It was not pleasant to limp on after all of that walking, but it doesnt last too long. ). Booked in advance on booking.com. The Svaneti region is beautiful. It cost 20 GEL per person and takes 2.5 hours, including a 30 minute bathroom break. Download coordinates: GPX, KML. Be sure to stop by Erti Kava for a cup of coffee while youre here. This route is marked on Maps.me, leaving the main route approx. The rooms were warm and cozy, and the views from the little balcony made the tough hike worth it. Required fields are marked *. Your email address will not be published. Joining the dusty road youll soon spot the Ushguli sign signalling the imminent end of your trek. The Svaneti people have their own culture with unique styles of dress, food, and attitude, separate from the rest of Georgia. 3400 metres Total Descent approx. Its run by a very welcoming family, and Nino makes a great breakfast. You can pay an additional 20 lari for breakfast per person, which was worth it since it was huge and she let us take the leftovers in a bag to snack on the rest of the day. *Note that as of 2021, one of those gates now has a private property sign and the owners are charging 2 GEL for passage. There is cell service almost all throughout the hike, but having an offline map is always handy. Looking northeast from the ridge viewpoint on a dramatic day of light and shadow, Looking northeast from the ridge viewpoint The Route. Seats are very reasonably priced, however its a small plane and they book out far in advance, especially in peak summer season. However, there are flights than can get you there in an hour or so. As soon as you are out of sight of the bridge a vehicle will approach you and the driver will negotiate a reasonable fare. In water this cold, hypothermia will kick in very quickly, so dont take any unnecessary risks. Its also possible to ask your guesthouse to call ahead and book your next guesthouse for you. We had a dog guide us down the trail for almost all of our first day. Of course, you dont have to stay in guesthouses. It is a great place for a mid-day picnic so we wandered further up the ridge line to a quiet spot away from the many trekkers and sat down to eat and enjoy the scenery. The first half of the hike is very scenic and it makes a great alternative to going all the way back to Zugdidi by road. You can dump your bag at the pass and make the trip there and back in about 30 minutes. A taxi from Ushguli to Mestia costs 150+ GEL. Is the Trek Safe and Can I Do It Without a Guide? The Transcaucasian Trail website also has a. we know of. This is a hard 1.5-2 hour ascent. Continue along this road until you reach Zhabeshi, or until you see a guesthouse to your liking. Unless you want to go skiing, the best time to visit is mid-June until mid/ end of September. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. July September Covers not only classic trails but also alternative routes which . I also recommend downloading an AllTrails map just to make sure you dont veer off at any points and end up having to back track. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. . Looking back towards Adishi from Chkhunderi Pass on a day of dramatic weather, Looking back towards Adishi from Chkhunderi In Adishi at Elisabeths Guesthouse I first time felt as Tourist on its worth meaning (tourist means money no meter what you get for it), sadly. Take the traditional trail down into the valley downhill into the village then back up again to reconnect with the upper trail. Today was a day. It is interesting to read about what each day will be like. The paved road will soon turn into dirt track and grassy meadow, but is well-marked throughout. To get to the viewpoint where the photo below is taken, keep right and walk past the stone houses and up the hill on the other side. Youre on the home stretch. It is absolutely freezing though, literally glacier meltwater, so its best to cross quickly but carefully and spend as little time in the water as possible. Instead of taking the easy road to Khe we chose the off road option, following a simple track which soon disappeared on us. A power bank is always a good idea for charging your phone, camera batteries, etc. We always like to have a pillow and sleeping liner too. , Guesthouse Ucha (+995595557470), and Iprari Family Hotel (+995599250578). Its possible to book via booking.com for guesthouses in each of the villages, and if youre hiking in July or August its a good idea to book accommodation in advance. Adishi feels more remote than any other overnight stop on the hike. Both Kazbegi and Svaneti are starting to get a bit touristy but this area is not. The arrow shows your direction of travel. The cost for direct is about 90 GEL ($29). My print outs said that the first day would see us walking for 3-4 hours, when it is more like 6 or 7. Make sure your feet are stable before taking your next step. After hanging a left we started ascending a steep, rough road which turned into a track leading up the valley wall. If you end the trip in Ushguli, you can take a taxi back to Mestia. It is absolutely freezing though, literally glacier meltwater, so its best to cross quickly but carefully and spend as little time in the water as possible. I brought a book, and some hikers we met along the way brought some playing cards. TREK MORE OF THE TRANSCAUCASIAN TRAIL IN SVANETI. There are many accommodation options in Ushguli, mainly spread across the middle and upper parts of the community. I am going to visit Georgia during next 30 days with my (sedan) car; I dont have enough time for a 4 days hike from Mestia to Ushguli but I really like to hike until Adishi Glacier viewpoint; Is it possible to drive to Iprali village and then hike up to the Adishi Glacier viewpoint with a light backpack and return to Iprali on the same day? However, that does mean that it is more difficult to get to (it will take you a day from Tbilisi). You can go up his brothers 900 year old tower and check out his family museum, an original tower house complete with hand-carved wooden barn, furnishings, and other items of ethnographic interest. The Ultimate Georgia Itinerary for 1 or 2 Weeks, 7 Things to Know Before Driving in Armenia, Georgia or Azerbaijan. In addition, they are light and have good grip for muddy parts of the trail. Marshrutkas leave from Zugdidi train station regularly from early morning until early afternoon (the last leaves around 1430). Instead, take the newer high trail through the flower fields. If theres anything essential you want to check (upcoming weather for example), check it up on the hillside beforehand. It had the name Tarzan on it, but I cant remember its actual name and I dont think I saw it online anywhere. Theres a small detour you can take going up the nearby ridge for some better views, about 30 minutes total. We met whilst trekking in Nepal in 1996, and have been following our passion for travel ever since slowly exploring the world by shoestring travel on long-haul journeys to many amazing destinations. The water is still pretty fast flowing but is likely to be below your knees. Id suggest if you condensed the trek into two days to take your time getting back to Mestia and spend the night there. It may be the best way to go with a group of four or more. Weve marked possible camp spots on our map and we cover guesthouses in more detail below. Were people going to do it on their own? The classic trek across Svaneti, with a twist. I was trekking with a friend so it cost us 15 each. We crossed the fast flowing river with an impressive view back to the collection of watch towers looming over the town. A few things first: We hiked Mestia to Ushguli via Tsvirmi , which is a slightly harder variation of the typical route but offers a little more seclusion. You can tap anywhere and save it as a bookmark by tapping the star symbol at the bottom. . We felt very safe both while hiking and in the guesthouses. We had a great stay at Guesthouse Angelina (+995598153538) which is near Lamaria Church at the very top of the village (if youve seen Dede you might recognise the mum, Shorena, as the doctor from the film). You only need to be of average fitness. We rounded a corner and it stood in front of us, stone watchtowers surrounding a medieval stone hamlet with a mountain backdrop. Sitting on Guest House Gogias balcony you can see the steep hill you will climb at the start of todays walk. Booking in advance is recommended as the best options will be full (even off season). For example, as mentioned down below, I stayed in the village of Lalkhori instead of Iprali. Turning right at the signpost, the trail turns into an old, disused road, and runs high up above the Khaldeschala river. Make sure you bring enough money to pay guest houses, taxis for the ride back, and any food/supplies you buy since credit cards will not be accepted and you will not find any ATMs along the way. This part is a little confusing since the path is mostly trodden grass, but there should be enough markings to indicate where to go. The trail is reasonably easy to follow and the villages en route offer accommodating guest houses with excellent food. The Adishi Glacier is a sight to behold here, and you will be fascinated at first glance itself. When you want to go back to Mestia, you can hire a private car or take one of the marshrutkas back. We stayed at Guesthouse Dodo or Guesthouse Tanana. However, youre never far from an electricity supply when trekking from Mestia to Ushguli. The water is still pretty fast flowing but is likely to be below your knees. Also consider trekking from Ushghuli to Mestia to see fewer hikers. We hope you enjoyed this account of the Mestia to Ushguli trek. This route is marked on Maps.me, leaving the main route approx. The towering snowy mountains and stone defense towers make you feel like you have really got to the end of the road, with Russia on the other side of the Shkhara mountain. (possibly mid-June mid-October), River Crossings There are several cafes in the village. If you have a cow blocking part of your trail (as we had in one instance when the trail was narrow), we pressed to the side of him as much as possible to get by and this prompted him to get to his side as far as possible. During the offseason, all the cafes, markets, and other things will be closed. Very tasty snacks. Autumn was in full blast, and with the snow-capped peaks in the distance, it made for an unforgettable view. Our dog barked at one and a mother pig came charging at us full speed. Hiking from Mestia to Ushguli: A 3-Day Trek Itinerary. Hi Stephen. We also provide a map and our GPX track download to help you find your way. Original stone roofed dwellings sit beside more practical metal-roofed homes, a hodgepodge of old meets new which is characteristic of many remote Georgian mountain communities these days. For the rest of the day you will be by yourself. Elevation Gain: ~ 650 meters / ~ 2100 feet. About Mestia - Ushguli Best time to visit: Summer, September The route is one of the most well-known trails in Svaneti. , Cool! Upper Svaneti has a strong culture, which is different from the rest of the country. Thanks a lot for this page! They have a great glacier hike there, but its about a 5-8 hour trip. We stayed in the Lika guesthouse, next to Chvabiani guesthouse. This is a little harder to follow. You can stock up at the convenience store in Mestia. The quality of guesthouses in Chvabiani/Zhabeshi is generally good, with hosts used to catering to a steady stream of hiking and skiing tourists throughout the year. Prices and download plans . From here there is a great view up the Enguri valley to the glacier above. It is 8 kms long and fairly flat so is pretty easy. The road crosses a few streams and has impressive views down into a narrow gorge at one point. Follow the sign, turning left and continuing up and out of Mestia. It will be closer to 6-7 hours of walking depending on how fast you are. You always can block or delete cookies by changing your browser settings and force blocking all cookies on this website. It was 3.45 pm, just over 5 hours after leaving Mestia. By day two we had had enough of the local salty cheese you get with every meal! Hover over the region or country that you want to visit and the app will prompt you to download this map. The app has existing OpenStreetMap trails marked and you can import GPX tracks and view them offline. Many of the places in these villages arent on booking. Alternatively, just tap the rectangle symbol at the top right of the map in this blog post to view the My Maps version larger on desktop. Nine of us sitting round the table couldnt even come close to finishing this amount of food. It was hot and sticky so we were pouring with sweat by the time we reached the top. If the direct Mestia bus has left or is full you can get the bus to Zugdidi and go on from there. During the peak trekking season (July-August), local guys hang around by the river in the morning, charging 20 GEL to carry you and your backpack across. Guesthouses are plentiful in each of the major hub towns of the trek. We stayed at Family guesthouse. The local Georgian guide, Merab, would help us out quite a bit over the next few hours. It was also before the first snow. The length of the journey ultimately depends upon traffic, the drivers speed, and how many times the driver stops. The elevation gain and loss figures for each hiking section are estimates based on our recorded track and mapping apps. Its not too scenic and mostly under a forest canopy. The trail is relatively flat and gentle. I broke them down into four parts to correspond with the four legs of the trek. ). The Mestia to Ushguli trek is a beautiful multi-day hike through Georgia's incredible Upper Svaneti region. Khalde is the first village you come to after crossing the Chkunderi Pass. October 5, 2022 No Comments Youre about an hour from Adishi. The main reason to do it the right way around, i.e. The easy path followed the Adishi river upstream for a little over an hour of walking. Another more minor drawback is that you dont have the grand reveal of hiking for hours and seeing the beautiful Ushguli come into the horizon. So, what to bring in your pack? It takes 45 minutes or so to descend. It is mainly downhill, or flat, from here. As little as possible. If you have hiking poles and good boots, you should be fine. A less busy road leads up through Murkmeli village, the first in the Ushguli community. Walk on as you reach the highest point of this leg of the trek. Id also recommend having waterproof boots and maybe some leg warmers to add an extra layer of warmth and waterproof protection. Another option is taking a taxi to Ushguli (remember this will be about $50 each way). The journey to the glacier at the foot of Georgias tallest mountain takes about 6 hours round trip. As you approach Ushguli you can see the cars lining the road to take you back to civilisation. You may need to ask your guesthouse owner to call someone to ensure you will be picked up. His/Hers Youll go through thickets of rhododendron hell, but will emerge out with maybe the best glacier view of the trip. Wake up the last morning in time to catch a marshrutka to Tbilisi. The trail is pretty well marked. The last part of the trek is about 2 hours of going down the other side of the mountain, in long sweeping switchbacks.
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